Since we now have the SSS Clutch available for the Yamaha KT100S, I plan to get hold of one.
You can also get hold of their starters, or a number of others that are available for upwards of $260. This makes the addition of a clutch to your
yamaha a $600-$700 exercise, or about the cost of a standard secondhand engine in very good condition. For this reason (and because I love a good project),
I decided to look at making my own.
Heres the parts I have used:
Component
Source
Price
Starter
Toyota Camry
$25 on ebay
Battery
14AH/12V
$45 on ebay
60A Push Button
Super Cheap Auto Part: PLU 120338 Code: SCS1026
$7
Misc Wiring etc
Super Cheap Auto
$20
TOTAL
$108
I pulled the starter apart to see what it would need to make it into an external starter.
I removed the drive gear from the end of the shaft to expose the spline.
I then ground the spline into a 3/8in square, and welded a 3/8in to 1/2in socket adapter to the shaft. At the same time, I welded the shaft just below the spline so that the shaft could no longer come out with the solenoid(to engage the flywheel normally).
The rear plate on the solenoid also needs to be removed so that the solenoid shaft can be cut in half.
This shaft normally pushes the gear out to engage the flywheel, and it also engages the contact to start the electric motor, but because the drive shaft will no longer move, this shaft will not move either unless its cut, and will therefore not allow the solenoid to make contact for the electric motor.
Its a pretty simple process that should take no longer than an hour.
I cut a hole in the back of the toolbox for the starter to fit through and then drilled the holes for the starter mounts.
I then drilled a hole in the lid for the starter button about 25mm in from the edge to fit the 60amp push button switch purchased from super cheap auto.
The toolbox is about twice as wide as it needs to be, but thankfully they have made it very easy to shorten.
You can use a hammer and screwdriver to break the spot welds down the far side of the box, and then drill the pop rivets out on the top.
This will keep the entire side panel in tact (including handle), which can then be moved along to shorten the box to where its required.
Once the box has been shortened, you can use the scrap metal to make a tray for the battery to sit on above the starter. The tray should stand around 130mm high.
The dimensions of the unit will be 250 (W) x 220 (H) x 220 (D).
I decided to screw the lid on so it was a bit more sturdy than using a latch, and the screws can still be removed to open the lid and charge the battery.
I bought some 10mm steel bar from bunnings, then bought a cheapo 3/8in to 1/2in socket converter.
I welded the converter to one end of the bar, and a cheapo 3/8in socket on the other end.
I also covered the box in stickers because it looked pretty bad!
